Man In the Moon Antiques Catalog

Costume Jewelry

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Accessories: This category includes things like cufflinks, hair combs, watch chains, purses, compacts, boxes, hair ornaments, vinaigrettes, and chatelaine pieces.
Alice Caviness:
Austro-Hungarian Jewelry: The very ornate looking "Gypsy style" usually in silver.
Bakelite:
Beads:
Bog Oak: Bog Oak comes from oak trees which are beginning to be fossilized after being buried in peat bogs for hundreds to thousands of years. The low oxygen levels keep the wood from rotting while the acidic conditions of the peak allow iron salts to react with tannins in the wood turning it black and very hard. Bog Oak is found in the peat bogs of Ireland and most Bog Oak jewelry is a souvenir of Ireland, not necessarily mourning. Bog Oak can be distinguished from other Victorian black materials by a usually Irish subject matter ( shamrocks and castles) and a visible wood grain.
Boucher: Many of the most collectible Boucher pieces are marked with the "Phrygian cap" mark. This mark, used from 1944 to 1949, contains the initials "MB" and an outline image of a phrygian cap or liberty cap, a soft conical cap associated with the theme of liberty in Europe. They were worn during the French Revolution, and Marcel Boucher used them to emphasize his French heritage.
Bracelets:
Cameos:
Celluloid and Other Early Plastics:
Charms and Charm Bracelets:
Coral:
Coro and Corocraft: DUETTES - Duettes are a pair of clips that attach to a frame with a pin on it. They can be worn has one large pin or two smaller clips. Although many manufacturers made them, Coro is the best-known maker of these and they made a huge number of them.
Cut Steel Jewelry: Cut steel jewelry can be made from faceted domes of steel individually riveted to the steel background or stamped out clusters of domes riveted to the background has a group. Cut steel was intended to mimic the dark silver sparkle of foiled rose cut diamonds.
Czechoslovakia Jewelry: The Czechs were master glass makers and produced glass jewelry in the 20s and 30s. These pieces were usually made from stamped filigree brass and quality glass pieces. Their work is very recognizable, and is often strongly art deco.
Dress Clips:
Earrings:
Egyptian Revival Jewelry: Inspired by the motifs of ancient Egypt this jewelry features sphinxs, scarabs, mummies, and sarcophagi. It was very popular in the art nouveau period, probably due to the naturalistic themes. There was a surge in popularity after the discovery of King Tut's tomb in 1923. Most Egyptian Revival jewelry was from this period, however there was an earlier revival in the 1820s inspired by Napoleon's conquest of Egypt.
Eisenberg and Eisenberg Original:
Fordite: Fordite - also called Detroit Agate - is auto paint that has accumulated on the tracks and skids as car body parts were hand spray-painted on the assembly line. When hardened, it can be carved just like bakelite. It usually has blobby layers of color and when washed in hot water it emits a chemical smell.
Fur Clips:
Gold Filled Jewelry:
Goldstone: Goldstone is a glittery glass containing copper crystals developed by Venetian glass makers in the seventeenth century.
Hair Jewelry: Hair jewelry was usually made to memorialize a departed loved one, or as a sentimental token of affection. It was also worn just to be fashionable. Hair could be made into jewelry by utilizing several different techniques.

A simple lock of hair could be curled into a locket.

Hair painting was done using macerated (cut up finely) hair. The pieces of hair were mixed with the pigment and applied with it or could be treated like mosaic tiles and carefully set in place. This technique gave texture to the grass at people's feet or gave leaves to willow trees.

Table working hair makes hollow woven tubes and shapes, like globes or acorns, and is done by weaving the hair through a hole in the center of a small table. The woven strands are weighted to keep the weaving smooth.

Flat, curled hair designs, glued into shape and then glued to the background. They can be cut into petals or leaves and decorated with pearls or gold wire. These are usually set under glass.
HAR:
Hattie Carnegie:
Hobe:
Insects: Insect jewelry could be made from actual insects or just simply feature insect motifs.

Hard insects like beetles could be treated like gemstones and prong set into jewelry. Scarab beetles (Scarabaeidae) are very common colorful beetles and were often used. Bright green metallic wood-boring beetles (Buprestidae) were and still are used for jewelry. Another very large family of beetles with many colorful members is the leaf beetles (Chrysomelidae).

Butterfly wings could be made into jewelry, usually set under glass. The most common butterfly wing to be made into jewelry is that of the Morpho butterfly of South America. These butterfly wings are an iridescent blue even after years because the wings are covered with prisms which continue to split up light even after death. These pieces are often purchased as a souvenir of a trip to Rio and are usually found in silver or silver tone. Thomas L. Mott of England made sterling real butterfly wing jewelry from the Victorian period into the 1920's. This sterling English butterfly wing jewelry exploded in popularity after 1924 when it was exhibited at the British Exposition. This jewelry is an example of the jeweler's creativity in using materials other than gemstones to make beautiful, colorful jewelry.
Jelly Belly: After the development of lucite in 1931, crystal-like cabochons of lucite were set in pins, especially as the bodies of animals. This style was very popular in the 40's and 50's.
Joseff Jewelry: Joseff designed jewelry to be worn in the movies. He use a matte finish that would show up on film but would not reflect the lights of the movie set.
Lava Jewelry: Victorians loved to travel and took Grand Tours of Europe, purchasing souvenirs in every city along the way. Victorian lava generally comes from Vesuvius in Pompeii, Italy. The ruins of Pompeii were discovered in 1748, and became a popular tourist destination. Lava is a soft rock that can be carved easily. This lava is actually volcanic rock not really lava,but the term has stuck.
Lockets:
Lucite:
Lucky Mustard Seeds: This jewelry features a mustard seed encased in plastic or glass. The mustard seed is considered to bring good luck. It refers to the Bible verse Matthew 17:20 "If you have faith as small as a mustard seed.... nothing will be impossible to you".
Miriam Haskell:
Mosaics: Glass mosaics are made by cutting and gluing many tiny glass tiles into a background to form a picture. The older the pieces are, the smaller the tiles and the more detailed the picture. Rome is famous for glass mosaics, and many were purchased there has souvenirs of The Grand Tour.
Napier:
Necklaces:
Other Designer Pieces: Original by Robert - Beau Sterling - Shiebler - Krementz - Austria - Pennino - Silson - Hollycraft - Korda Thief of Bagdad - Ocean Treasures - Mazer - Wendy Gell - Kalo - Forstner - Kerr - Nettie Rosenstein
Paste: Paste stones have been used instead of genuine stones. Paste is high lead crystal called "paste" because when heated it doesn't go all the way to a liquid but stays a malleable paste. These costume pieces are collectible in their own right.
Peacock Eye Glass: Peacock eye glass cabochons and beads were often used in art nouveau and arts and crafts period jewelry. They were made in Bohemia from the late eighteen hundreds on by layering green glass over foil and adding cobalt blue spots. They resemble the eyes of peacock tail feathers.
Pendants:
Pins - Including Sash Pins: SASH PINS - Sash pins were large heavy pins with thick pin stems from around 1890 through 1915. The fashion at this time was to wear a sash over the shoulder and across the chest (like Queen Victoria); or with the lighter Edwardian fashions, around the waist. These pins were used to secure the sash to the dress and were large and heavy to pin through multiple layers of cloth. They come in many styles and motifs.
Pool of LIght: Pools of light are rock crystal globes from Japan. They are called "pools of light" because light shining on them gathers in bright pools both inside and underneath the globes.
Regency Jewelry:
Rhinestone Jewelry:
Rings:
Sandor Jewelry:
Satsuma: Satsuma pottery was made in Japan in the 1800's. With an ivory body and enamel over glaze, it was a popular export. It was used to make belt buckles, belts, buttons and other accessories in Japan,which were often made into jewelry and sold to the West. Many Satsuma jewelry pieces were made from these decorative utilitarian objects. Designs feature Geisha Girls, butterflies, cranes, flowers and dragons.
Schiaparelli:
Schreiner New York:
Sets:
Silesian Wirework: Silesian wirework is Georgian or early Victorian woven iron wire jewelry, thought to be made in Silesia.
Silver and Sterling - Siam Sterling:
Snake Jewelry and Ouroboros: Snakes were a popular subject for Victorian jewelry. The Victorians were fascinated by the classical world which was coming to life for them due to many archaeological discoveries during this period. The classical peoples thought snakes were important,so the Victorians did too. Classical people considered snakes to be the ultimate worshiper of the Mother Earth because they laid their entire bodies down upon her. To them, snakes were sacred symbols. The Christian Bible turned the snake into an evil character to overcome this belief and aid in the conversion of pagans to Christianity. To the Christian philosopher, the snake sloughing off his skin represents the transmigration of souls - the soul passes from life to life in the eternal cycle of life and death.

Ouroboros - This is the oldest mystical symbol in the world. It came to the West from Egypt via Greco-Roman culture. "Ouroboros" means "the tail-devourer". It is a snake forming a circle by swallowing his own tail or forming a lemniscate (symbol for infinity).

Ouroboros symbolizes Infinity. On a deeper level it symbolizes wholeness in the eternal cycle of life, death and rebirth - the eternal return. In mourning jewelry this would be resurrection and the rebirth of a soul into heaven.

On a even deeper philosophical level, as Ouroboros swallows his tail (the past), it seems to disappear but is never really gone. It is only moved onto a internal plane. Out of sight, but not out of mind - never really gone from your heart.
Stanley Hagler:
Stick Pins:
Tortolani:
Trifari:
Vauxhall Glass: Vauxhall glass jewelry was made from thin pieces of mirrored colored glass. It was popular in both the Georgian and Victorian periods. It was made at the Vauxhall Glass Works in London. The thin pieces of glass are very fragile and this makes the pieces fairly scarce, especially in great condition.
Vegetable Ivory: Vegetable Ivory is made from the tagua nut, the seed of a South American palm tree. It is very dense and can be carved like ivory. It is white when fresh but turns yellow with age. Victorian vegetable ivory is usually a characteristic light brown.
Victorian Revival Jewlelry:
Vinaigrettes and Perfume Holders: These were popular accessories during both the Georgian and Victorian eras.
Vinaigrettes would contain a sponge or a piece of cloth that could be soaked with vinegar. When a lady felt faint due to either severe corseting or the noxious odors of the unsanitary streets, she could take a whiff of vinegar for restoration.

Perfume holders would be filled with perfume or scented oil to cover-up unpleasant odors. A lady could, again, take a sniff if offended. She could also keep her perfume fresh all day , and surround herself with pleasant odor. This could be important in the days before indoor plumbing and wash and wear clothing.
Vogue:
Vulcanite Jewelry: Vulcanite is one of the earliest man-made plastics, patented about 1846. It was in heavy usage during the Civil War years. During this time period, massive jewelry was in vogue, and many woman were in mourning. Vulcanite, being plastic, was cheap and light while still being the mandatory mourning black. Vulcanite jewelry is never carved, but always molded, and smells like burning rubber when heated.
Weiss:
Wooden Jewelry:

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